What is it about surfing that makes it so much fun from the very beginning? What is it that keeps us coming back year after year? From tiny grommets to geezer legends in their 70s and 80s, just about everybody who gets in the water can feel the stoke.
Surfers describe the feeling with mystical reverence, and while it has come to have a watered down and non-surf specific meaning (I’m stoked for some unhealthy fast food!), “the stoke” is a great way to describe the feeling that is almost unique to surfing. The stoke is what makes your hair stand on end as you ride to the beach while it is still dark, anticipating those offshore winds and perfect swells you saw in the forecast. The stoke is also what makes you want to hop back on that soft top and try another foamer after you fall flat on your face and bop your nose on the wisely selected forgiving top, making you laugh through the tears.
The stoke is out there, for sure? But what is it exactly and what makes it so compelling? To answer this question, we can look to behavioral psychology, neurology, chemistry, physics, and primatology. Stay tuned for more. Or just hurry down and come surfing with us and feel the stoke for yourself!
n you will have a hard time getting waves; a lot of people are just floating out there like buoys. I have heard some other surfers refer to buoys with contempt, and it’s true that sometimes I wish there were a few less people do dodge, but
Consider that a lot of surfers in Jaco are beginners and on the weekend, lots of people from San Jose who are just starting surfing and don’t get to practice every day are out there. They have paddled out to the lineup where they have a chance to catch a wave and where they can see up close what other surfers are doing and what works and what doesn’t. But they have enough sense to know they are not ready to charge in a crowd, so they are just sitting their floating and that’s fine by me. Better to be a buoy than a kook!
If you are beginner coming to Jaco to surf, you will only be 10 to 30 yards out from where you can stand up and touch bottom with your head out of the water and the hold downs never last for more than 15 seconds. Still, a little breath holding pratice never hurts. When you are starting out and winded from paddling and then wiping out, 15 seconds can feel like a long time.
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This surfing video was shot about 1 mile from Jaco hotel DoceLunas on Jaco beach on December 4th with a small swell. The swell was around 12 second period, 4 foot open ocean height coming from around 210 degrees according to local surf forecasts for Jaco. The waves were around waist high mostly.
You can check out more about surfing in Jaco on our blog topic page for Jaco surf. Whether you are a beginner or an expert, you can rent our GoPro camera and make your own surf video when you come visit us at Jaco hotel DoceLunas.
Jaco hotel DoceLunas presents a video of two waves shot on a gopro camera.
The original video is in full HD but we have rendered it in lower res and added a filter so that it will load fast on the internet. Come visit us at our lovely hotel in Jaco and be the star of your own surf movie!
Last night a record 8.9-magnitude earthquake occured in the Tohoku region offshore of Japan in the Pacific Ocean creating Tsunami waves up to 10 meters. The magnitude of 8.9 make it the largest earthquake to hit Japan in recorded history. The earthquake in Japan is also the seventh largest
The earthquake was focused off the Oshika Peninsula, the east coast of Tohoku on Friday, March 11, 2011 at 05:46 UTC (14:46 local time). The Tokyo Broadcasting System (TBS) indicate that at least 200 people have died and another 398 are missing in six different prefectures as a result of the Tsunami caused by the earthquake.
Current predictions indicate the resultant tsunami will hit Costa Rica at 4 pm CST March 11, 2011.